Approaching Textiles, Varying Viewpoints

2000 Proceedings:
Approaching Textiles, Varying Viewpoints

Seventh Biennial Symposium, September 19-24, 2000. La Fonda Hotel, Santa Fe, New Mexico.

The Seventh Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America was held September 19-23, 2000 at the La Fonda Hotel in Santa Fe, New Mexico. The TSA 2000 Symposium theme, Approaching Textiles, Varying Viewpoints reflected members' interests in textiles as fascinating objects that draw our attention and reflect their cultural, geographic, and temporal settings. Varying Viewpoints emphasized the ways in which scholars and artists investigate textiles through many different methods and theories. Indeed, the 2000 Symposium showcased a wide range of professional approaches from the perspectives of artists, art historians, anthropologists, conservators, entrepreneurs, historians, and many others. Viewpoints invited exploration of differing cultural perspectives. Several panels include indigenous scholars and textile producters/users from around the world.

A session featuring textile-related videos and a market place/bookfair were special features this year. Santa Fe also offered the opportunity to enjoy the many local museums, galleries and studios, many of which offered special events for Symposium attendees. Before and after the Symposium, study tours visited fascinating out-of-town sites such as Taos, Acoma, and Laguna Pueblos, the Millicent Rogers Museum and the Spanish weaving village of Chimayo.

The 2001 Proceedings contain the juried presentations made during the 2000 Symposium. The variety of approaches represents the richness of interests found among Symposium participants and also the unique resources that Santa Fe and surrounding areas provided for this gathering.

2000 Proceedings:
Approaching Textiles, Varying Viewpoints

Quechua and Navajo Textiles: Teaching Tradition Through Weaving

• Quechua Textiles: Preserving a Living Tradition. -Nilda Callañaupa
• Navajo Weaver as a Teacher of Traditional Textile Arts. -Pearl Sunrise

• The “Aristocracy of Color” among Kolla Communities in the Andes of Northwest Argentina. -Andrea Fuchs
• The Order of Things in Ancient Peru: Visual Metaphors in Wari-associated DWW Textiles. -Jane W. Rehl

• The Washita Chief Blanket: Part I, Textile Analysis. -Peggy Whitehead and Joyce Herold
• The Washita Chief Blanket: Part II, Provenance and Ethnohistory. -Joyce Herold and Gordon L. Yellowman, Sr.

• Pitfalls, Perceptions, Problems, and Possibilities in the Perusal of Prehistoric Fabrics. -Mary Elizabeth King
• Archaeological Textiles: the Numbers Game. -Nettie K. Adams
• Ancient Traditions, New Interpretations: Compression Resist Textiles in North and Mesoamerica (abstact). -Virginia Davis
• Approaching Fabrics Through Impressions on Pottery. -Penelope B. Drooker

• A Cautionary Tale Concerning Textile Reproduction. –Marjorie Durko Puryear
• Jacquard Art Weaving: an Inexhaustible Process of Exploration. -Louise Lemieux Berube
• From Upholstery to Installation: Educating Designers and Artists Using an Electronic Jacquard Loom. -Deborah First
• A Mao a Minute: Real Computers as Virtual Weavers. -Lisa Lee Peterson

• Decoding the Divine: Kathi Embroideries of Saurashtra. -Victoria Z. Rivers
• Conversing with the Cosmos. -Linda L. Beeman
• Woven Incantations (abstract). -Jasleen Dhamija
• Narrating Seen and Unseen Worlds: Vanishing Balinese Embroideries (abstract). -Joseph Fischer

• Panelists: Melissa Leventon, Lotus Stack and Suzanne Baizerman

• India-west Africa Trade Textiles (Iwatt) ‘An Escapade in the Life’ of Gujarati Mirror-work Embroidery. -Hazel A. Lutz
• Cloth in Contemporary West Africa: A Symbiosis of Factory-made and Hand-made Cloth. -Heather Marie Akou
• Afghan after a Fashion: the Fusion of Politics with Religion and Women’s Textile Craft Economies. -Catherine Daly
• Discussion of Panel Textile Tradition and Fashion in the Context of Globalization. -Joanne B. Eicher

• Policarpio Valencia’s Embroidered Poetry. -Annin Barrett
• Turkoman Embroidery and Women's Magic (abstract). -Kate Fitz Gibbon
• Embodying Embroidery: Researching Women's Folk Art in Western India. -Michele Hardy
• Heavens’ Embroidered Cloths - Textiles from the Honan Chapel, University College Cork, Ireland. –Elizabeth Wincott Heckett

• Contemporary Polish Textile Art: a Legacy in Transition. –Gayle Wimmer
• Shibori: Tradition and Innovation (abstract). -Ana Lisa Hedstrom
• Teaching and Learning: a University Studio Art Experience of Trique Weaving (abstract). -Laura Strand
• A Sense of Place and Identity in Aotearoa New Zealand. -Kelly Thompson

• Old Ties and New Points. -Keiko Kobayashi
• Bureaucratic Ideals and Artisanal Reality: Survival Strategies in the Production of Echigo ju (abstract). -Melissa M. Rinne
• Japanese Kimono Fashion of the Early Twentieth Century. -Annie Van Asche

• Tokapu Messages. -Catherine Julien
• Textiles and Their Messages: Perspectives from the Central Andes: an Examination of Structure as Message in the Chavin Textiles (abstract). -William J. Conklin

• Clothes from Cactus? Ancient and Contemporary Examples of Cactus Fiber Clothes and Textiles in Ecuador-Lynn A. Meisch
• The Multiple Layers of Meaning in a Paracas Necrópolis Textile. -Anne Paul
• ‘Tornesol': a Colonial Synthesis of European and Andean Textile Traditions. -Elena Phipps
• Of Gods and Men, Ancestors and Tapestry in the Central Andes. -Amy Oakland Rodman

• Fiber Art/Works of Art: Positioning and Perception in the Marketplace. -Alice Zriebec

• The Gaziantep Cloth Trade: a Study of a Putting-out System of Cloth Production in Southeastern Turkey. -Charlotte Jirousek
• Ajrak: Cloth from the Soil of Sindh. -Noorjehan Bilgrami
• African American Women: Plantation Textile Production from 1750 to 1830. -Karen Hampton
• The “Invasion” of Zapotec Textiles: Indian Art “Made in Mexico” and the Indian Arts and Crafts Act. -W. Warner Wood

• Weaving and the World Economy or How Colonialism and Coffee Affected the Indigenous Weaving Industry in Zuénoula, CôteD’ivoire. -Barbara Sumberg
• A Textile Enterprise as a Tool of Economic Development: Part I. -Haddy Prom
• A Textile Enterprise As a Tool of Economic Development: Part II. -June Pearson Bland

• Expanding Textile Studies Through the Use of a University Costume Collection (abstract). -Gayle Strege
• A Faculty / Staff Discussion Seminar on Textiles. -Deborah A. Brothers
• Expanding Textile Study: Some Recent Approaches: A Museum Approach to Exhibition a History of American Textiles. -Karen J. Herbaugh
• Textiles, Scholarship, and Art Education: An Art College Perspective. -Wendy Landry
• Conservators' Approaches to Viewing Textiles. -Harold F. Mailand
• Discussion of Recent Approaches to Expanding Textile Studies. –Patricia A. Cunningham

• Bringing it Home: Extracultural Experiences in the Art of Carolyn Price Dyer. –Mary Lane
• Examining Mid-century Decorative Arts: Pipsan Saarinen Swanson’s Printed Textiles for the Saarinen Swanson Group. -Ashley Brown
• From Paint to Wool: Artist-weavers at the Victorian Tapestry Workshop. -Tina Kane

• Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth I. -Wendy Weiss and Mary Lee Johns
• Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth II. -Gloria E. Gonzalez-Kruger, Wendy Weiss and Mary Lee Johns

• Ixchel and Cotton Cloth Production in Classic Period Northern Yucatan (abstract). -Traci Ardren
• Revisiting Kashmir in Spirit. -Peter Harris
• Reed Screens of Central Asia (abstract). -John Sommer

• Nature as Code. -Ruth Schueing
• Material and the Promise of the Immaterial. -Ingrid Bachman
• Performative Textile Gestures. -Ann Newdigate

• Weaving From the Womb: Textiles, Gender, and Kinship in Rupshu (Eastern Ladakh) (abstract). -Monisha Ahmed
• Dynamics of Warp and Weft: Contemporary Trends in Naga Textiles and the Naga Collection at the Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford. -Vibha Joshi
• Symbolic Content in Textile Motifs: Using the Semiotic Approach. -Patricia Williams

• Perpetuating Ritual Textile Traditions: A Pueblo Example. -Laurie D. Webster
• Traditional Costume and the Zapatistas. -Carol Hayman
• Thai Textiles: the Changing Roles of Ethnic Textiles in Thailand. -Linda Mcintosh

• Tivaevae: Local Aesthetics and Cook Islands Quilts. -Suzanne P. Macaulay