Creating Textiles: Makers, Methods, Markets

1998 Proceedings:
Creating Textiles: Makers, Methods, Markets

Sixth Biennial Symposium. September 24-26, 1998. Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, New York.

This symposium was structured to encourage participants to explore the varied textile resources in New York City. A full complement of juried papers was presented at the Fashion Institute of Technology. For the first time, afternoon site seminars were also held concurrently at museums, historic houses, galleries, design studios, manufacturers' showrooms and workrooms. Additional pre-symposium field trips offered overviews of a variety of textile disciplines as did several out-of-town excursions. Luncheons and evening activities enabled participants to meet others with their special interests.

• Introduction to panel. –Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada
• Starlets and Masters: Meisen Posters Published by the Textile Makers. -Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada
• Hogushi and Heiyo: Methods of Creating Painterly Images in Woven Textiles. - Kazuo Mutoh
• Jogakko Meisen: Kimono Trends in Women's Schools in Early 20th-Century Japan. -Masanao Arai

• Making It the “Old-Fashioned" Way -Laura Foster Nicholson
• The Past is Prologue. -Lia Cook
• Drawing on Tradition. -Cynthia Schira
• Electronic Textiles: Hacking the Museum. -Barbara Layne
• Tablet Weaving: Ancient Technique, Medieval Splendor, Modern Technology
• “Scutulis Dividere Gallia”: Weaving on Tablets in Western Europe. - Carolyn Priest-Dorman
• “Alienor Regina...Me Fecit”: Production and Patronage of Medieval Tablet-Woven Bands (abstract). -Nancy Spies
• Unit Turning Blocks forDesigning Tablet Weavings. - Bonita R. Datta

• The Weft-Twined Structures of Cloaks of the New Zealand Maori. -Margery Blackman
• The American Coach Lace Industry. - Nancy C. Britton
• Damask Linen Manufacture and Marketing at the Turn-of-the-Century: Interpreting the Biltmore House Collection. - Kate Rehkopf
• Kynoch Tartan: A Cultural Analysis of Small Mill Production Based on Technological, Market and Social Frameworks. - Ann McLennan
• Faith, Hope and Charity: Making Madras, c.1880-1930 (abstract). - Mary Schoeser
• Transitions and Expansion: The Haskell Silk Company's Switch from Thread Manufacture to the Production of Yard Goods, 1880-1882. - Jacqueline Field

• Cheney Brothers: The New York Connection. -Carol Dean Krute
• Light and Shadow: The Textile Designs of Edward Steichen (abstract). - Lola McKnight
• The Troyes Manuscript: Technology and Design in 15th-Century Tapestry Cartoons. - Tina Kane
• Technological Development in Late Saxon Textile Production: Its Relationship to an Emerging Market Economy and Changes in Society. - Philippa A. Henry
• A Horsehair Woven Band from County Antrim, Ireland: Clues to the Past from a Late Bronze-Age Masterwork. - Elizabeth Wincott Heckett
• Re-Defining Tradition: Handweavers to the World. - Seema Chandna
• Alternative Trade Marketing: Three Approaches to Textile Design and Production. (abstract) - Mary A. Littrell and Marsha A. Dickson
• Brokers of Textile Traditions: The Case of the Shopkeepers in Turkey. - Marlene R. Breu and Ronald T. Marchese

• Dolls and Upholstery: The Commodification of Maya Textiles of Guatemala. - Margot Blum Schevill
• Textile Traditions of Ausangate, Peru and Indigenous Strategies for Dealing with Tourism and the Cuzco Market. - Andrea M. Heckman
• Recuperating a Wealth of Women’s Weavings in the Valleys of Chuquisaca, Bolivia. (abstract) –Kevin Healy and Veronica Cereceda

• The Fabrication of Good Government: Images of Southern Song and Yuan Silk Production in China. - Roslyn Hammers
• The Timelessness of Damask. - Milton Sonday
• Tracing Intricate Thread Control Systems: From the Bamboo Drum or Swine Basket Loom to the TC-1. - Carol D. Westfall
• Fiber and Leather Products of the Juhena Tribe of Saudi Arabia and How They are Made. - Joy May Hilden
• Handwoven Dowries from the Gotse Delchev Region of Bulgaria (abstract). - Miriam Milgram
• Weaving for Your Life: Creating Textiles in Dolpa, Nepal. - Anne M. Johnson
• Tibeb: Art of the Weaver in Addis Ababa Today. - Jannes Wales Gibson
• Weaving in Taspinar: A Case Study of Using Samplers in Carpet Weaving. - Sumru Belger Krody
• The Calligrammatic Pattern: An Aspect of Modernism in French Textile Design. - Lourdes M. Font
• Creating Textiles in Belgium During the 20th Century: A Large Weaving Manufacturer, A Small Textile Studio, and a Contemporary Textile Designer. - Elsje Janssen

• Meeting the Needs of Manufacturers: The Education of Silk Designers in 18th-Century Lyon. - Lesley Ellis Miller
• Between Tradition and Modernity: Textile Design Education in Lyons at the Beginning of the Twentieth Century (abstract). - Florence Charpigny

• Between the Field and the Museum: the Benedict Collection of Bagobo Abaca Ikat Textiles. –Cherubim A. Quizon
• Warp Ikat in Mindanao and Indonesia: Some Comparisons and their Implications. (abstract) –Roy. W. Hamilton

• Suzani Vernacular: Technique and Design in the Central Asian Dowry Embroideries. –Angela Izrailova
• Interlacing Histories: Loom Technologies and Pictorial Weaving in Late-Nineteenth Century Japan and France. (abstract) –Leila Wice
• Recreating a Warp-faced Compound Weave with the Jacquard Mechanism: Considering Heizo Tatsumura. –Keiko Kobayashi
• Exceptional Textiles for Today’s Interior: Weaving Our Way Through the Design Community’s Exclusive Showrooms (abstract) –Mia Backman
• The Confraternity of Embroiderers in Salamanca During the Sixteenth Century: Its Members and Their Work. –Marta Newman-Laguardia
• An Early Seventeenth-Century Japanese Textile in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. –Joyce Denney
• The Mystery of the Eisenhower Toile. –Cindy Cook

• Moses, Little Red Riding Hood and the Furniture Store: Wimpels (Torah Binders) in the Yeshiva University Museum Collection. –Gabriel M. Goldstein
• Spanier Arbeit Atarot (Collars for a Prayer Shawl) in the Collection of Yeshiva University Museum. –Bonni-Dara Michaels
• The Grape and the Vine: A Motif in Contemporary Jewish Textiles. –Reba Wulkan
• The Organization of Work on Ancient Peruvian Embroideries: Putting People Back in the Cloth. –Anne Paul
• Catering to the Designer: Stewart Culin’s Study Rooms at The Brooklyn Museum of Art. (abstract) –Kathleen Moore
• Links in a Chain: The Collaborative Process of Creating Textiles for the Interior Design Industry. (abstract) –Krista Stack
• The “New Deal” Child Artist: Textiles from the Educational Alliance Art School. –Joanne C. Dolan
• Making the Bed: Printed Sheets for Children Since 1960. (abstract) – Sarah Hayne Fitzsimmons
• Dressing by-the-Book: The Significance of the Sample Book in the Marketing of American Men’s Apparel, 1925-1930. –Diane Maglio
• Concept, Considerations and Creativity: Designing and Making Textiles for the Contract Industry. (abstract) –Elizabeth Whelan

• Morris DeCamp Crawford and the “Designed in America” Campaign, 1916-1922. –Lauren Whitley
• Ilonka Karasz: Making Modern. –Ashley Brown
• Marion Dorn: The American Years. (abstract) –Whitney Blausen
• Jessie Franklin Turner: American Fashion and “Exotic” Textile Inspiration. –Patricia E. Mears

• Photographic Evidence for Nineteenth-Century Central Asian Ikat Production (abstract). –Kate Fitz Gibbon
• A Look Inside and Behind Central Asian Ikats (abstract). –Annie Carlano
• The Market for Central Asian Ikats (abstract). –Gail Martin

• Analyzing Patterns in Oriental Carpets: Through Symmetry to the Mind of the Maker. (abstract) –Carol Bier
• Exploring Pattern in “Kashmir” and “Paisley” Shawls. (abstract) –Arlene C. Cooper
• Exploring Pattern in Woven Design: A Comparison of Two Seventeenth Century Italian Textiles. –Melinda Watt

• Investigating the Origins of the Raphael Tapestries at the Cathedral of St. John the Divine. (abstract) –Camille Myers Breeze