Weaving Independence from a Distant Cottage Industry
Fenella G. France
In support of scientific studies of American flags, research into the origins of early 1800 flag fabrics wove a fascinating tie to England, where the wool fabric was made, and why it survived while the weaving industry was mechanized during the industrial revolution. In the late 1700s, the specialty fabric for flags, wool bunting was perilously close to extinction. Men traditionally did most wool weaving, since wool, fabrics were heavy and bulky. However, the bunting was a lightweight, narrow fabric, manufactured on small looms that could easily fit in the cottage kitchen. The very survival of this fabric was dependent on its production by women and children, and was of such a high quality that fabric of high enough quality was not produced in the United States until the late 1860's. There was high demand for military flags in the States, and since silk flags became fragile so quickly, wool flags that allowed the breeze to move the fabric were more robust. A number of extremely large wool garrison flags were made during the War of 1812, including that of Ft. Niagara just across the lake from Toronto. Ironically the flags that represented the newly independent and revolutionary USA were made of fabric created by the local working class in England. This interconnection of the social fabric between two countries that were at war extended further as we unravel the trading links and the impact of the industry in keeping alive the small town of Sudbury in Suffolk, England.