Andean Textiles and American Fiber Artists

Lauren Whitley

 

During the 1960s, ancient textile techniques and processes from around the world became subjects of intense interest for American fiber artists. Ancient single-element techniques such as looping, knitting, and coiling, along with other processes such as plaiting, batik, and gauze weaving, served as fresh inspiration for artists seeking contemporary expressions through fiber. Chief among these inspirations were the weaving traditions of South America – in particular, the virtuoso techniques embodied in pre-Conquest Andean textiles. Artists looked to this rich heritage for inspiration, reworking and reinterpreting Andean methods in their own artwork. The study of ancient American weaving traditions had a particularly vital role in the artistic development of Lenore Tawney, Sheila Hicks, and Ed Rossbach. Pioneers in the field of American fiber arts, these artists became intrigued with Andean textiles in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Study of Pre-Conquest Andean weaving techniques resulted in groundbreaking experimentation and innovation in their own artwork, which in turn had a tremendous influence on the generation of fiber artists that followed.

 

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